The guide to perfume for man

A perfume does not choose as we choose the taste of the balls of our sorbet in the ice cream. According to a study conducted by Ipsos a few years ago, 89% of consumers surveyed say that the scent is first and foremost a means to express her own style. In our society, it has become a symbol of our personality. Moreover, it is not uncommon to make the link between ascent as an odor reference, and a person from our entourage. We understand better the influence often unconscious cues olfactory on our brain. It also captures the importance of not making this choice lightly. This guide contains some keys to clear the field by identifying agreements that can we agree. To help you better understand this universe, gentlemen, we propose you now to discover the testimony of the expert David Frossard, designer of the label of rare perfumes Different Latitudes. There is no reason that we ask you if you have borrowed the Cologne from your grand-father...

A bit of history

The use of scent in humans dates back to antiquity, whereas some civilizations (Sumerians, Egyptians, greeks) used it already. Found commonly in the form of incense, a term the origin of the word "perfume" which means " by smoke ". The Arabs have brought their knowledge of the distillation process, while the Romans have designed the glass bottle that we know today.

In the Middle Ages, it is widely adopted in order to mask unpleasant odors due to baths very rare for fear of contagion, the contact of the water. You can imagine the smell nauseating that could create the association grime/perfume in the course of the kings. Sensitive souls refrain...

It is in the Renaissance with the discovery of ethyl alcohol, that the first perfumes grease-free and oil-free are made. At this time, it is widely used by members of the bourgeoisie. The first eau de Cologne is created in the 18th century from cereals and fruit. It was not until the 19th century that the perfume world was experiencing a small revolution with the launch of Jicky, a fragrance imagined by Beloved Guerlain. This is the first time that a perfumer combines with the musk to be of the essence of synthesis in a composition. Deemed too high by the women, it will be adopted by the men and renamed the " Handkerchief of Monsieur ".

But it is in the 1970s, the perfume is more popular among men. The need for the user is no longer based on a pretext (mask odors body, use after-shave...) but on a real desire for customization. The following decade seeing the emergence of potent fragrances and spicy, very masculine. Currently, the trends are continually changing at the discretion of the expectations of male consumers and of the creations of the perfumers. More than a simple step in the process of daily hygiene, today's perfume has become a factor of originality and incarnation.

ABCédaire perfume

The notes

When one goes to a perfumer, you always hear talk about the different notes of a fragrance without actually knowing what it is. It is wonderful to learn that such fragrance has notes of heads of bergamot but it does not advance us much more. It must be borne in mind that a perfume is conceived according to an olfactory pyramid architecture. It's not so complex, to decipher since it only distinguishes between three categories of existing notes :

The top notes

These are the notes that you feel in the first place during the vaporization. Generally, they are distinguished by their freshness and lightness with tones say "of hespéridés" (lemon, bergamot, orange, neroli...). These are notes that we perceive directly and yet it is the more volatile and ephemeral. This bouquet is a determining factor in the purchase although it is not the most representative of the scent itself. The smell remains for about 30 minutes before the heart notes appear.

The heart notes

These follow one another so in the top notes and constitute what could be termed the olfactory signature of the perfume. It is they who give the main tone and create the identity of the fragrance. Stronger than the previous notes, they last and develop over a longer period of time and are often composed of aromas, more floral.

The base notes

The base notes appear several hours after spraying, but it may persist for a day or more. They allow to fix the scent and make it last in time. It is the smell that creates the memories and attachment to a fragrance because they permeate our clothes permanently.

The olfactory families

Each fragrance in its distribution has what we call in the universe of perfumery, an " olfactory signature ". To make it simple, the different smells are classified within seven to eight categories of smell existing. These are not static and evolve over time to adapt to the creations of perfumers :

Chyprées : these flavors are primarily comprised of notes of oakmoss, patchouli, bergamot, rose and jasmine.

Woody : we find in this family essentially male, odours extracted from cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, birch. These notes bring warmth and character to the perfume.

Oriental : they combine fragrance composed of spice, vanilla, cinnamon, amber. This family includes fragrances with warmer notes.

Citrusy : it is the category of the oldest which brings together the scent made up of citrus notes such as lemon, orange, grapefruit, mandarin or bergamot. They are often very volatile and remain some time on the skin.

Aromatic : frequently used as the basis of perfumes for men, these agreements are prepared with aromatic herbs such as thyme, rosemary, mint, eucalyptus, or anise.

Ferns : the smells that constitute this family together notes of moss of trees, such as oak, as well as lavender, vetiver, and geranium. They are found in particular in the cosmetics male type shave foam, balm, aftershave...

Floral : it is mainly concentrated in the female fragrance, the bouquet of this family includes several species of flowers such as rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, violet...

Leather : this last family represented in perfumery male appeared later, revolves around dry notes like leather or tobacco smoke.

This is David Frossard, founder of the label of perfumers from Different Latitudes who speaks to us about the better species commonly associated with men's fragrances and cites some of the fragrances that can make the difference :

"For a long time woodsy fragrances have been the prerogative of men's fragrance, marketers of all stripes have assistant marine notes as well as notes, summaries such as Dihydromyrcenol, fruity aroma that is found in almost all men's fragrances making them more mundane. If you want to get out of this pattern and re-appropriate its own olfactory signature, then it must reconnect with its personality and its skin and regain its originality. Have a style olfactory! The classic Vetiver work wonderfully, provided they are twistés and modern as the Isle Of Man of the house Frapin where there is a vetiver salty and marine. The Résinoides, incense, Myrrh, etc work very well as the surprising Mississippi Medicine or Freetraper of DS & Durga, or the if chic Sancti Liquids Imaginary. "

How to choose a perfume

It is not always easy to orient to the correct gasoline when you find yourself nose to nose with the many bottles littering the shelves of a great perfume. Even with all the goodwill in the world, the/seller(se) will rarely cause a revelation of the smell with his client. We regularly hear that after having felt three different perfumes, our sense of smell becomes totally skewed. Hence the need to enquire in advance by documenting a bit on the olfactory families likely to please us. There is also a trick, to smell coffee beans in order not to mislead our noses after three trials. In order to help us determine our olfactory signature, here are two essential factors to be taken into account in the choice of the perfume. The first is based on our skin type and our skin tone while the other, more esoteric, concerns our personality.

Depending on the type of skin

Who among us has never thought that the scent that he had newly acquired was not on his skin? Or that the smell was not at all consistent with the felt on the small tab of paper in the store. It is important to know that the alchemy between perfume and the skin depends on the acidity thereof, but also her skin tone. Identify in advance the type of skin that allows you to head towards the olfactory families to which we best correspond.

• Oily skin : they produce a lot of sebum which, combined with the perfume, can intensify the flavour and durability. In this case, it is not necessary to have the hand too heavy at the risk of making the scent too heady. You should not hesitate to opt for one of the coolest notes and small families citrusy or aromatic.

• Dry skin (such as acids) : in contrast, they are characterized by a lack of fat and a content of the agreements being much shorter on the skin. It should then move towards the fragrances more intense woody or leather notes. To increase the duration of the scent, it is advisable to apply a moisturizing cream beforehand on the area of vaporization.

• Skins matt : this skin type accommodates very well the bouquets musk and warmth.

• Skins white roses : if you have the skin fairly clear, one that tends to make easily in the sun, the oriental notes and citrus will bring a tone to your personality.

The epidermis can alter the notes and aromas of a fragrance. The best way to find out if it suits us, is to test it on yourself by waiting 30 minutes for a glimpse of the heart notes. It is only then that one is able to relate to the holding of the perfume as well as her true olfactory signature. It is important to try it on oneself to not to be fooled by our " body chemistry ".

According to his personality

A perfume allows you to be assertive and, in some way, reveal his character traits. David Frossard explains this with much accuracy :

"A fragrance can say more about you than any clothing, it will be a true shortcut to your inner self. It is for this reason that it is necessary to choose it with great attention by acting as guide through all of these notes by an expert, to avoid any lack of taste, and to find your second skin scented ! "

Nevertheless, it must be borne in mind that certain fragrances very specific can not be carried by a majority of us. One can imagine more easily the profile of a man with a look of singular bear species of the new and surprising, reflecting his strong personality. If you have a classical style, opt for a perfume that was not us denote with your character and your nature. However you might be surprised to see which of the olfactory families, the professional David Frossard you would after you have identified a little about your personality :

"A fragrance as Dom Rosa, a superb rosé champagne with a hint of pink fresh can be perfect on a bales tattooed. The men are often very shy sense of smell of fear of making a lack of taste but of the animal notes blend beautifully with the manhood as a Oud Abramad of BDK especially on brown skin tanned. "

Another aspect is to take into consideration in our choice, that is the formula fragrant the most suitable for you. Depending on your skin type and, therefore, of the keeping of agreements, it is necessary to opt for an eau de toilette or an eau de parfum. The first is more commonly used in daily life, as it leaves a trail discreet. The scent is more powerful, will be appreciated on a skin is more dry which keeps the smells less.

How to apply

Now that you know more about art and how to choose a perfume adapted to your personality, a few tips you may find useful in relation to methods of application.

Where to apply it

Contrary to received ideas, the strategic location to carry out spraying our scent is not the neck. It is to focus spraying on the areas of our body that release the most heat. This is the case of the inside of the wrists or elbows. The back of the ears is also a place to focus. Finally, the sternum can be a good choice since the smell will permeate your t-shirt or your shirt at the same time. Do not select all of these application areas, one or two will do the job well enough, at the risk of making the scent too heady for the people in your life. The best way not to alter the notes of your fragrance is left to dry naturally after application. Avoid putting your scent on the areas of your body that may sweat. The combo smells of sweat and perfume do not mix well !

how often to apply it

When we wear the same fragrance for several months or even several years, one becomes accustomed to its agreements. In this case, there is a tendency to no longer feel smelling it on us. This is sometimes what motivates us to empty the bottle twice as fast as the one previously purchased. It is necessary to know, therefore, that it is not necessary to pour out his bottle in its entirety. It is quite normal to no longer see his notes. This does not mean that the people you rub shoulders with only the feel of your touch. The product should not be re-applied too often. Of course if you get out of the gym, after a good shower, you can spray the perfume again at some strategic locations. But do not overdo it too much and be aware of doser depending on the type of formula you have chosen :

Toilet water : less concentrated than an eau de parfum, it can be worn easily on a daily basis and can be sprayed several times a day.

Eau de parfum : it offers a better grip and sprays once per day.

A tip that will allow you to spray it away a small amount of perfume, is to acquire a vial miniature booster. Sold as a perfume, you can more easily carry it around with you and discreetly to you, re-odorize during the day (in moderation all the same).

The brands to know

When choosing a perfume, some of us will lead systematically to the great houses of perfume known around the world. They represent a sure value within this universe. Others manifest the desire to find a fragrance more intimate and confidential. This may occasionally annoy to recognize her perfume on the first stranger who crossed him in the street. So whether you're more classic or not, it is important to identify the olfactory signature that may suit you and to look at how to position themselves the creations of the perfumers in terms of bouquets. To you comrades more traditional or those who are more adventurous, here is a list bringing together the great names of perfumery and perfumers are more confidential.